The Story Behind The World’s Fashion Capital
Paris boasts a multi-faceted superiority of undeniable elegance and inexplicable charm. From cuisine to art, champagne, and architecture — the French do so many things so very well. Among their talents, the French know their fashion, and throughout centuries Parisian style has continued to impress upon fashionistas around the globe. At various times, New York, Milan, and London (among others) have rivaled for fashion domination, but Paris remains the most coveted of all the fashion hubs. So how did this city rise above the ranks to become so très chic?
This story begins in 1643 when Louis the Great — otherwise known as Louis XIV — commenced his longstanding reign over France. Now Louis had an affinity for the decadent, and the King transformed the Palace of Versailles — a former hunting lodge — into the illustrious grounds we see preserved today. In his endeavor to bestow grandeur upon Versailles, Louis the Great decided it was unacceptable that he should import luxury textiles from other countries, namely Italy. He thought that France should be home to the crème de la crème, so he utilized the concept of mercantilism to limit imports and maximize exports, ensuring an optimal trade position for France.
This policy, along with a magazine called ‘Le Mercure Galant’, transformed the French economy. The magazine featured luxury items and fashion reviews and served as a platform to market goods that were readily available in the region.
By the 1680s, thirty percent of all Parisians worked in the fashion industry, and the best designers swarmed to the capital.
Later, when Marie Antoinette — King Louis XVI’s wife — became a style icon, she also introduced the world’s first celebrity designer; Rose Bertin. Bertin became a household name after 1772, and her designs were exported and admired widely. Interestingly, Bertin’s designs accentuated the female form and enlarged the wearer’s silhouette, which strengthened a woman’s presence in social settings. Social movement and design influencer? What a woman!
After the French Revolution devastated the economy between 1789 and 1799, the new ruler of France, Napoleon Bonaparte, declared that no-one should wear the same outfit to court twice. Naturally, this kept designers and seamstresses on their toes and allowed the fashion sector to remain profitable.
By the 1850s, Napoleon III had introduced a grand vision for the entire country (in particular; Paris,) which heightened the demand for luxury goods. Simultaneously, Charles Frederick Worth introduced fashion shows, live models, trends, and seasonal pieces. Worth is known as ‘the father of haute couture’ (meaning ‘high fashion’,) and he began labeling his pieces in an attempt to outsmart counter-fitters.
The most exciting period of fashion, in my humble opinion, came in the roaring twenties. Gone were the days of constricting corsets; this was a glittering haze of shorter hemlines and floating fabrics after the horrors of The Great War. The twenties also introduced the world to master couturiers Paul Poiret and Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. Chanel was quickly making international news for her skill in “creating simple, yet extraordinary garments” and she soon introduced the world to ‘the little black dress’.
During World War II, the heavy weight of German occupation forced the Parisian fashion scene into quiescence, and wartime style consisted of utilitarian jackets and masculine lines.
Ultimately, Christian Dior is said to have revived French fashion in February 1947, with feminine lines, petticoats, and corsets. Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent were hot on his heels (so to speak,) and wealthy women overseas — particularly American women — wanted to buy Parisian garments. To exacerbate this popularity, movie stars such as Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, and Elizabeth Taylor favored Parisian couture, the latter wearing a now-iconic Dior dress when awarded ‘Best Actress’ at the 1961 Academy Awards.
The publications of Vogue Paris were revived in the 1970s under the influence of new leadership, and the magazine heightened the popularity of the ‘hippie’ style which is synonymous with the Women’s Liberation Movement of this period.
Our preference for Parisian fashion has been perpetuated through popular culture, and Paris remains the beating heart of style and luxury in the 21st century. Parisians themselves uphold this obligation, believing that a higher price point is indicative of better quality purchases, whilst possessing a natural ability to create a chic look with ease.
This city’s influence and success in the field of fashion cannot be attributed to one designer, nor one period of time. Instead, Paris’s domination of global fashion culture is an incredible legacy built upon the vision, talents, and determination of many individuals, over many centuries.
Author’s note:
If you’re interested in learning more about the rise of French luxury goods, The Widow Clicquot by Tilar J. Mazzeo chronicles the rise of the champagne industry — or more specifically, the House of Veuve Clicquot — during the French Revolution. It is a marvelous read… especially with a glass of champagne in hand.
Originally published for artil magazine
